As important as it is to select the proper needle for the fabric you are using it is also important to select the proper needle for the thread. Very often thread breakage, skipped stitches or other thread problems are the result of damaged or improper needle selection.
There are two key factors which determine the correct needle to be used.
- Select the thread to match the fabric or project.
- Select the needle type to suit the fabric
- Finally select the needle size to match the thread. The thread must lay in the front groove without sitting on top or wobbling in the groove. The eye must be large enough for the thread to pass through with minimal friction in order to create the perfect stitch
Machine needles range in size from 60/8 (fine) to 120/19 (heavy duty). The higher number relates to the needles shaft diameter in metric. The lower number relates to a U.S. system which also relates to the diameter.
- Universal. General purpose needle that can be used with woven fabric as well as knits.
- Jeans/Denim. Designed for densely woven and heavily finished fabrics. Features a very stiff point and slender eye.
- Jersey/Ballpoint. Needle is designed for use on knits. Rounded point slips between the fibers rather than cutting them.
- Stretch. Slightly more rounded point than universal. Tiny hump between eye and scarf allows the thread to make larger loop on one side of the needle.
- Quilting. Thin, tapered deep point which is good for sewing multiple layers.
- Microtex. Thin shaft and slim sharp point. Lightweight fabrics, delicate wovens and any heirloom sewing
- Topstitch. Extra sharp needle is less rounded than the universal. Eye is twice as long and front groove is deeper. Good choice when using heavier threads without piercing large holes in the fabric.
- Embroidery. Designed to work with embroidery threads, this needle has a large eye and special scarf that protects more fragile threads.
- Metallic. Designed specifically for metallic and flat decorative threads. Eye is double sized and Teflon coated. Front groove is deeper and the scarf is longer.
Thread/Machine Needle Chart
70/2 ply Universal 70/10, Embroidery 75/11. Microtex 70/10
60/2 ply As Above
50/3 ply Universal 70/10 - 80/12, Jeans 80/12, Quilting 75/11
40/2 ply Universal 70/10 - 80/12, Quilting 75/11
30/2ply Top Stitch 90/14, Embroidery 80/12, Jeans90/14
30/3 ply Top Stitch 90/14, Quilting 90/14, Embroidery 90/14
Jeans Stitch Denim 90/14, 100/16, Embroidery 90/14
Synthetic Thread
Rayon #40 Embroidery 75/11 - 80/12
Poly #40 Embroidery 75/11 - 80/12
Rayon/Poly # 30 Embroidery 90/14
Metallic Metallic 80/12, Embroidery 90/14
Filament Silk
#100 Microtex 70/11, Embroidery 75/11, Universal 80/12
#50 Universal 80/12 - 90/14
#30 Top Stitch 90/14, Embroidery 90/14
Part reproduced from 'A thread of Truth' by YLI